A Conversation with Chef Tom Power and General Manager Ferhat Yalcin of Corduroy

Looking back at your opening days, how did it go?

The day we opened, I was in line for building inspection. We opened an hour and a half later. We wanted to keep things easy for the staff, so we kept the menu at the start.  It went smoothly.

 

You’ve brought a significant number of staff with you from the hotel.

People stay with me for a long time. It’s hard to find help. I make them happy. I find ways to make them stay. If I had to hire all new staff in the move, it would have taken me an extra month to open.

 

What about the chefs on your line? Ferhat mentioned your sous chef Paul as your right hand. . . .
Paul has been with me for eight years. And he makes the staff meal every day. He gets creative. The staff jokes when he feeds them chicken necks and backs and duck feet. He’s from Bangledesh. At one point, I had three Bengalis in the kitchen, all connected to Paul somehow. Now I can order everything in Bengali. I know all the food words.

 

Is there a secret to your soup? What else is a crowd pleaser at Corduroy?

I don’t know. I like to make soup. I’m good at it. People love it.

 

The poussin is the favorite. It’s brined, poached, then roasted. It’s very moist and tender. The waiters don’t necessarily push them. But one or two go out from the kitchen, people see and smell them, and they start ordering.

 

What’s one unusual ingredient in your kitchen right now?

One of the more unusual items in my kitchen is the mountain potato– it’s crunchy and slimy. Its texture adds a faux fatness to things.

 

How would you describe your cooking style?

Clean. Simple. I think what we do is very detail oriented. The technique has to be there. If one part is missing, there isn’t a lot to hide things.

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Ferhat, now that you’ve settled into your new location, do you anticipate any changes?
We wanted our staff to get used to the place first. We’ll decide as we go, which is what we’ve done so far. For example, we have speakers in the ceiling. But just before opening, Tom decided he didn’t want to have music. He wanted people to focus on food or company or a visual. Music doesn’t block these things. By not having music, it just allows for another window to open.  

Your favorite dish?

His soups are killer. Whatever he’s making, it’s the best soup he’s making.  

 

What is it like to work for Chef Power?

He’s very calm and knows direction. He doesn’t use 30 ingredients in one sauce, but uses a few very well. His food speaks for itself.