Go buy yourself some absinthe.
Posted by melissamccart on July 10, 2007
I’m not sure how I missed this, but in perusing info on Tales of the Cocktail in New Orleans from July 18th through 22nd, I found out about Lucid, the American version of absinthe that’s for sale– legally– in the U.S. It doesn’t sound as bunk as you might think when you hear “American” and “absinthe” in the same sentence. Here’s the story from the business section of the New York Times, regarding Viridian Spirits’ Jared Gurfein’s quest to make a US version:
A New Orleans native, Mr. Breaux now produces absinthes in Saumur, France, using the same recipes and ingredients — including the plant Artemisia absinthium, or grand wormwood — employed by his 19th-century predecessors.
Mr. Gurfein asked Mr. Breaux whether he could produce an absinthe that would pass regulatory muster with American authorities — meaning that it would not contain thujone. Mr. Breaux said that would be fairly easy, given his belief that, contrary to popular opinion, 19th century absinthes contained relatively little thujone to begin with — less than 5 parts per million, according to his tests, rather than much higher estimates that have been bandied about.
Still, Mr. Breaux knew that removing thujone entirely might harm the taste. “I had to get a handle on the whole thujone issue without compromising the character and the flavor of the drink,” he said. To accomplish this, Mr. Breaux blended the grand wormwood with green anise and sweet fennel from Europe, instead of using more-affordable imports from East Asia. Using herbs from Europe, absinthe’s native continent, he said, gives the drink an earthier essence.
Mr. Breaux also had to keep the American palate in mind while developing Lucid. “In the U.S., anise is a sort of a strange flavor,” he said. “We don’t get a lot of exposure to it.” So Mr. Breaux made sure that Lucid had a slightly cleaner, crisper taste than its European peers.
Is it available yet in D.C.? I called Schneiders and Calvert Woodley, who suggested that a) it’s not in D.C. yet and b) to go ahead and call up New York stores to get some, many of which will ship out of state.
Some options? Beekman Liquors, LeNell’s , and Morrell Wine. If you find yourself up there, you can try it in a drink at Employees Only and Death & Co.
When it arrives in town, please let us know where in the comments.
absintheur said
Hello!
This is a strange piece of text:
“I had to get a handle on the whole thujone issue without compromising the character and the flavor of the drink,” he said. To accomplish this, Mr. Breaux blended the grand wormwood with green anise and sweet fennel from Europe”
Absinthe was always made with anise and fennel – to suggest that Ted Breaux used this to compensate for his American version very low thujone absinthe is nonsense.
European absinthe can legally have >35mg thujone content. US alternative “absinthe” like Absente (made with Southern Wormwood) has no thujone and Lucid has so little that it registers as 0 on the FDA test (which is very antiquated) He is correct that it will effect the taste.
The other thing about Lucid is that the distiller has actually lowered the classic anise flavour to comply with “American tastes” This makes this remark that you quote even more unusual.
Kubler (a Swiss brand) dating back to the original period is due in the USA too and I think you’ll enjoy that one :-)
Kelly said
Tried the real thing in Europe — twice actually — and so not getting what the hype is about.
B said
Don’t listen to Absintheur. Believe me, he’s nothing near a real one. Abs, have you actually TASTED Lucid? Have you read the tasting reviews? It doesn’t seem so.
Although they say that they’ve lowered the anis a bit, it still comes through powerfully. But it’s also well balanced with the wormwood.
Also, levels of thujone in absinthe do nothing to affect the taste. What DOES affect the taste is the specific herbs and their quality, in both the maceration (before distillation), and also in the coloration step.
And Kelly, what type of absinthe did you have? Did you try the Czech stuff, that tastes horribly bitter and is artificially colored, or something more authentic? Authentic absinthe tastes nothing like the Czech stuff.
I too live in DC. I had Park Ave liquors in NY ship my Lucid order. It was here within 2 days.
If you’re going to TotC, I’ll see you there!
absintheur said
“Also, levels of thujone in absinthe do nothing to affect the taste. What DOES affect the taste is the specific herbs and their quality”
Thujone levels being a marker of the quality of the artemisia absinthium, and the distillers art.
” Have you read the tasting reviews? It doesn’t seem so”
The one’s about beet alcohol? Yes.
http://www.louchedlounge.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=4625
B said
Of course you would pull up the Louched Lounge as a source, although you are using it for propaganda purposes. You don’t seem to understand why the LL exists, and that it’s all tongue in cheek bashing.
I mean read the REAL reviews on FV and WS.
Counter Intelligence said
[...] Out New York informs neophytes that no, Absinthe is not supposed to be lit on fire. Speaking of, I still haven’t found Lucid in Washington. When will it arrive? Lucid [...]
Five on Food: Articles from the Wednesday Dining Pages « Counter Intelligence said
[...] Five on Food: Articles from the Wednesday Dining Pages Wednesday September 05th 2007, 1:24 pm Filed under: 7. General Interest 1) Flipping His Way to Half a Million Omelets. Washington Post. Freelance writer and friend Kelly DiNardo writes a charming story of Cecil Ray Exum, Sr., who’s been flipping omelets for Crystal Gateway’s Marriott since the early ’90s. Perfect your omelets at home with his step-by-step advice. It’s all in the wrist. Also check out Jason Wilson’s piece on absinthe (though you read it here first). [...]
Magdalena said
My company is doing a report on taste of various brands of absinthe and Lucid comes out in the bottom. It tastes like a gasoline comparing to others that have a beautiful harmony of herbs.
anthony said
Try researching Le Tourment Vert. I’ve been hearing great things about the company!
freshness said
ltv is my fav absinthe
Poeticalmath said
where?
flygurl said
I researched it, tasted it, and LTV is really good. It’s supposed to be the most authentic brand of absinthe.
Sip said
try the “green on main” with LTV
LiveYourLifeIn09 said
Le Tourment Vert is availible in DC! its the best!